I’m not sure whether the dominant personality trait of big-name surfers is crazy, insane, brave, reckless, or stupid. Probably a combination of all those. Witness:
That’s a 78-foot (23.8m) wave (trough to peak). An eight-story building. Made of solid water. That weighs one tonne per cubic meter. Each one-meter slice of that wave weighs around 250 tonnes.
Here’s another dude talking about an epic ride that didn’t turn out as well.
Surf’s up, dude!
Tuesday Gnarly Open Comments
by
Tags: