Tuesday Gnarly Open Comments

I’m not sure whether the dominant personality trait of big-name surfers is crazy, insane, brave, reckless, or stupid. Probably a combination of all those. Witness:

That’s a 78-foot (23.8m) wave (trough to peak). An eight-story building. Made of solid water. That weighs one tonne per cubic meter. Each one-meter slice of that wave weighs around 250 tonnes.
Here’s another dude talking about an epic ride that didn’t turn out as well.

Surf’s up, dude!


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